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By SUSAN REIGLER • Dec. 23, 2000
The Courier-Journal
"There are many pleasures to be had from a visit to the Blue River area of Southern Indiana. You might canoe along the river itself and be treated to the sight of a kingfisher skimming the water or a great blue heron perching on an overhanging sycamore branch. Keep your ears open, and the calls of wild turkeys can be heard from the wooded hillsides sloping up from the river banks.
Too often, one has to sacrifice one pleasure for another, such as the satisfaction of a civilized meal for the enjoyment of nature. But not so near Milltown, Ind. After a walk in the woods or a paddle downstream, you can stop by the Blue River Cafe, still clad in your L.L. Bean or Orvis best, and savor cooking of a high order, not to mention cocktails or a bottle of excellent, but modestly priced, wine.
That's just what friends and I did one recent weekend.
Several tables were occupied upstairs, where a music teacher and his young students were enthusiastically entertaining patrons with Christmas carols, and down, though the restaurant couldn't be described as crowded. This was good, because there seemed to be only a single, overworked, but cheerful server in attendance. (The apparent proprietor hovered a lot but could manage only to stir himself to bring wine. Not once in a busy evening did he help serve or clear a plate.)
There was a long, multi-minute wait for our orders to be taken, but we were enjoying our conversation, and once the food started arriving, it was well worth the wait.
We started with cups of soup ($1.75) and green salads (included with a couple of dinners).
The clam chowder was a creamy, savory delight loaded with plump shellfish, but the star was the roasted garlic soup. Its mouth-coating richness was complemented by a flotilla of herbed, crunchy croutons. Salads were equally fine, made with very, very fresh greens and homemade dressing. (The chunks of blue cheese in one could have been spread on crackers and served as an appetizer.)
We managed to try half of the eight entrees. Black Angus prime rib ($14.95) was a notably lean cut, seasoned on the outside and juicily roasted. The slice ordered was served medium-rare, as requested. The baked potato on the side was foil-wrapped and a little tough, a rare slip in quality from the rest of the meal. Fried apples were tart, crunchy and sweet with a dash of sugar.
Roasted chicken ($10.95) was falling off the bone. Flavored with, but not overwhelmed by, orange and rosemary, it had a wonderfully crispy skin that sealed in the moisture of the meat. The rice pilaf on which it was served had been cooked in broth. An interesting side vegetable was the order of spinach ravioli nudi, little cakes of spinach and cheese shaped like pasta pillows but without the cases.
The baked orange roughy ($12.95) had a hint of anise or fennel. (Had the chef splashed a bit of aquavit in the baking dish?) Its flaky flesh was delicately encased in a Parmesan crust, which highlighted, but didn't mask, the seafood flavor. Italian baby limas on the side displayed a dash of oregano.
Having covered beef, chicken and fish, we also had a vegetarian entree. The vegetable strudel ($9.95) was fashioned with homemade, feathery puff pastry stuffed with a subtly seasoned, layered medley of mushrooms, squash, tomatoes, spinach and onions, all held together with a dollop of pepper cheese. Each vegetable flavor held its own, but also blended with the others just a little differently with each bite.
We shared a bottle ($20) of a fruity, but dry, red wine from Bonny Doon Vineyards of California. Madiran Heart of Darkness (1998) was appropriately named for riverside dining.
We had just enough room left to share a pair of desserts (each $2.75). It was tough to choose from the list of seven, and if the other five are as good as the ones we had, the Blue River Cafe should double as a bakery on those days it doesn't serve meals.
Arkansas pecan pie was served warm, oozing around the plate at the touch of our forks. The pumpkin maple cheesecake exhibited more maple than pumpkin, but the imbalance was easily forgiven".
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